
We managed three countries in one day; Vientiane (Laos), Hanoi (Vietnam) then Hong Kong...although we nearly didn't make it out of Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines insisted our ticket was invalid and actually it was but it was their mistake. We were still charged with adrenalin after enduring Laos Airways again so we argued until we went blue and got the flight

free - hoorah! On arrival in Hong Kong we could see through the rain that it was a huge contrast to Laos; developing to developed, cheap to expensive. It was amazing; transport ran on time, roads were tarmaced, buildings were sturdy and not a bamboo pole in sight! Most hotels are around 50gbp/night, so we checked into the YHA on Hong Kong Island, located 269 metres up Mt.Davis with not much else except a mobile phone tower. In fact the YHA was the worse we have ever stayed in; cold, damp and like a prison camp with beds as hard as planks but only 5gbp each.
Our first day of exploration was really exciting as we took in the frantic hustle and bustle of Central Hong Kong. We watched the world go by in the coffee shops of Soho

and then at night ate food with expats and workers relaxing after a day in one of the skyscrapers that make up the business district. Doing the touristy thing, we took an open top bus to the Peak Tram Station and then caught the tram up to the top of Victoria Peak which is the highest point on Hong Kong Island and the most exclusive place to live. The views were amazing with skyscrapers of every height jostling for position in the dense jungle of buildings and the harbour sweeping between Lantau, Hong Kong and the New Territories.
Steve's 33rd (gulp!) birthday came around with incredible speed and we celebrated by visiting Hong Kong's Space Museum in Kowloon, the harbour front of the New Territories (the land connected to mainland China). Not Beth's idea of a great day but it was Steve's birthday and she does get her way for the other 364 days of the year! We saw a film and then visited Hard Rock Cafe for a western lunch after an

overdose of noodles, rice and spices in South-East Asia. We spent the evening taking in the incredible 360 degree harbour views in Hong Kong's only revolving restaurant
R66; 66 because supposedly it takes 66 minutes for a full rotation. After careful timing however, we feel it should really be callled R87 (not that we're picky or anything). We had the nicest meal in a long time and gorged ourselves on both the buffet and the views. Funny what you can see from a height and Hong Kong makes use of every last little piece of space as even the skyscrapers have running tracks and football pitches on top! After a drink in Soho, we took the Star Ferry to Kowloon again and wandered down the Avenue of Stars where Hong Kong recognises their home grown stars such as Jackie Chan. It also affords fabulous views of the skyscrapers lining and lighting the harbour on Hong Kong Central side. Classical music strained to be heard above the excited chatter of spectators and the horns of the sight-seeing boats in the harbour and, as the volume increased, the symphony of lights began. The HSBC building normally lit in red and white, flashed in time with the music of the wind instruments. The Bank of China building sent silver streaks careering up and down its towering HQ to the sounds of the brass section, the Exhibition Centre shimmered and flashed in reds and yellows whilst the Central Plaza shot green lasers above the crowds in time to the strings. The harbour front came alive and we felt the the pride they have in their spectactularly unique extravaganza of bright colours. God forbid they have a power cut.
We left Hong Kong wanting more. More of the designer window shopping and harbour lights, more of the little noodle restaurants tucked away behind neon signs in side streets. More of the indomitable vibrancy and drive that makes it difficult to see how China would ever be able to influence an island defiant in the face of communism and holding true, at least for now, to the 'one country, two systems' mantra.
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