Saturday, February 12, 2005

Sunny in Silhanoukville

Cambodia had proved to date to be one of the most interesting countries we had visited but we weren't sure what to expect from a Cambodian beach break. On arrival in Silhanoukville we were not disappointed as the beautifully tropical Serendipity Beach was lined with open-air eateries illuminated by fairy lights and the people who worked there friendly and affectionate.

Serendipity Beach, Silhanoukville, CambodiaAs we lazed on the beach, children and women wondered up and down the beach trying to sell us fresh prawns in boxes or BBQ lobster, wooden bracelets or fruit, manicures or massage - most of which we bought! We became almost permanent fixtures on the beach with some of the children seeing the four of us and putting down the baskets balanced on their heads to hug us, play with Katie and Beth's hair, fight with the boys in the sea and just sit with us for hours as we read. After lazing most days with them in front of Sunny Bar, we would then watch the sun set over the sea while consuming more of the Cambodian cuisine; Amoke, Loc Lac (lime sauce and meat), seafood curries and noodle soup. More often than not, we would have lots of beers*, put the World to rights or as in the case of one rather raucous night, drink into the early hours.

The only blur on an otherwise fantastic few days was seeing the sex tourists, who having picked up girls in Phnom Penh, had travelled to the coast for their idea of fun and frolics. The girls in Eden bar that we went to one evening seemed under age and when one collapsed in a drunken heap and was promptly carried away by a big butch American, we felt sickened. With Will and Beth feeding her water in an attempt to sober her up, she told us she was from Phnom Penh but became abusive when we asked if she was okay to go with the man who was by now unceremoniously loading her onto a nearby motorbike taxi. There was little we could do and the girl refused any help. Maybe she was fine, maybe she had no choice, maybe she wanted to do this. Maybe we'll never know but it was very sad.

So the mayhem of our lazy fun-filled days continued and in the children we made friends that we were sad to leave. After four days we left Silhanoukville armed with at least three friendship bracelets each and fully relaxed ready for our last night in Phnom Penh.

*Will's influence - 'beer o'clock' could easily be as early as 4pm.