Singapore: Voluntary Communism or Guided Democracy?

Singapore was part of the British Empire until it became Japanese in 1945 following Britain's biggest defeat in World War II (or so the history books claim). Passports and currency changed overnight but two years on (after Germany's defeat) the Japanese moved out and Singapore became Malaysian this time. Continued campaigning saw Singapore gain independence in 1965 to become the city, the country and the Island. Now after 40 years of development, Singapore is the most developed country in Asia with a healthy population of almost four million on an island the size of Isle of Wight. Chinese constitute 76% of this multi-cultured society followed by 14% Malay, 8% Indians and a smattering of ex-pats*. Why the history lesson? Because Singapore is fascinating with a checkered history that few know because unlike Pearl Harbour or Europe, films have not been produced on the subject. The guidebooks will tell you to not spend long here and devote the majority of pages to it's neighbours. They will say that Singapore is high-rise buildings springing from land that was once lush jungle. Ignore them. The modern high rise blocks and the towering skyline do exist as the frontline of Singapore, but it's when you delve deeper and visit Little India, China Town and Arab Street that you see the old side and the cultural side. Singapore needs exploration - every day is like a new chapter and a new lesson. So many cultures live along side each other and where else in the world do you see Catholic, Arab, Muslim, Hindu and Buddhism places of worship sit next to each other? Singapore is compassionate and tolerant, it is law abiding and clean, it is unlike any other culture we have ever experienced. Freedom of speech is censored; hawkers are registered and those citing doom to the end of the world have to apply to speak in public. The local police vet their script and they can say their piece in 'Speakers Corner'. As long as it doesn't cover religion, politics or sex that is. Littering is a fineable offence, chewing gum is illegal and legislation insists that all vans are fitted with a siren that sounds if you drive faster than 60kph. This country bans oral sex and nudity in your own home...if you're spotted that is. The police must have a great time. But if you have no food, the government will give you a sack of rice. If you have nowhere to live then they will house you in one of the many HDB's (Housing Development Board), high rise blocks of flats that the locals live in. Unemployment is only 3% because people love to work here, they work all day and all night if they can. It may sound like communism but capitalism is certainly welcomed. These people WANT to live like this, in a city with little crime and where we only heard a police siren once in an entire week. Some choose to call it guided democracy. But whatever you think of Singapore, you will not find the answer in a guide book or in our travel diary, you will only find the secret of Singapore by visiting, binning your guidebook and instead asking a local. But whatever you think Singapore is, for Gods sake don't share the view in public. You might well get fined.

* Stats taken from Singapore Government website, reports dated June 2004