Following the Waikati valley we headed to Mt.Cook which at 3754m is the highest mountain in New Zealand. The scenery changed dramatically on route from lush farmland to dry tussock grass until finally we followed the shores of Lake Pukaki, a wonderfully vivid and almost chemical looking turquoise colour. Staying at the White Horse Hill DOC campsite in Mt.Cook village, we spent the night praying for good weather as we desperately wanted to do one of the famously beautiful walks in the valley. Next morning we were full of the joys of spring, quite literally, as the blue sky and brilliant sunshine sparkled off the snowy mountain tops, and the air was fresh and crisp. As we walked, we felt like the happiest, most blessed people on earth until we came to the Alpine Memorial - a poignant reminder of the people who have lost their lives climbing Mt.Cook and surrounding mountain ranges. The plaques were dedicated by parents and siblings, friends and colleagues, people who lost the people they love. It reminded us quite strongly that nature is so very volatile and as if on cue, the valley erupted with the sound of avalanches tumbling from the mountain ranges, echoing around the valley.
At almost 3151m, Mt.Sefton almost steals the limelight, standing in the foreground of the landscape but it's when you se Mt.Cook, majestic and unique in shape and size that you see why it attracts people from all over the world. A quote from Samuel Butler sums it up better than we ever could:
"I am not sure that Mount Cook is not the finest in outline of all the snowy mountains I have ever seen. No one can mistake it. If a person says he thinks he has seen it, you may be quite sure that he has not seen it. The moment it comes into sight the exclamation is 'that is Mount Cook', not 'that must be Mount Cook'. There is no possibility of mistake." Samuel Butler
Following the Hooker Valley and the tinkling sound of the Hooker Stream, we finally reached the Hooker Glacier terminus lake, complete with icebergs and boosting the creamiest sky blue water, borrowed from the light reflecting glacier particles submerged in the lake. A stark contrast to the almost chemical turquoise of Lake Pukaki we had seen the day before.
As the weather turned gale force, we finally dragged ourselves away from the lovely Mt.Cook and followed the Inland Scenic Route. We had the Southern Alps as a back drop for the next 100km and it was more than a slightly wistful glance that we shot at the Mt.Hutt ski field as we passed it, now nearing the end of the season and our budget proving too tight to have a final day boarding - boo. Anyway, not to be distracted, our destination: another bloody (Beth's adjective) LOTR filming location.
After a final and uncomfortable 20km on gravel roads we were rewarded with our first glimpse of Mt.Sunday aka Edoras in LOTR. Even Beth had to admit it was worth the visit, looking at the tussock-lined valley with Mt Sunday at the centre, raising 600m from the floor and put into perspective by the surrounding circle of mountains. Our climbing attempts were foiled by streams and finally a river so we gave up and watched the setting until dusk and then free camped on the banks of Lake Camp before our drive back to Christchurch - our final destination in New Zealand.
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