The Northern Most Tip of NZ

Before leaving Paihia we visited the Waitangi Treaty Grounds where the Maoris and British agreed to live in peace under the sovereign rule. Well worth the visit and amazing to think that 500 Maori cheifs had walked the same route we did to the treaty house in 1860!

From Paihia we drove through KeriKeri, the first European settlement in New Zealand, famous for it's citrus orchards of limes, lemons, oranges and grapefruits, not to mention the other produce of this sub-tropical region such as Macadamia nuts, avocado and olives. Stopping for a freshly squeezed orange juice, we were feeling very virtuous. Within an hour we had undone all the good work by stopping at the harbour of Mangonui (meaning big shark in Maori - gulp) for a massive helping of freshly caught fish, battered and served with a healthy portion of chips from the 'World Famous Fish & Chip Shop'. Not sure about it's levels of world fame but the fish & chips were certainly mouth-wateringly delicious. In fact we are drawling as we type. Driving further round we passed the bay where Rainbow Warrior memorial is placed - a tribute to the Greenpeace boat and the crew member who lost his life when it was blown up by French Secret Service operatives. Stopping near Kaitaia, we camped overnight in a town called Awanui where, if you haven't got 3 heads and a limp, people stare at you.

In contrast to the 'hole in the rock' day, we had lovely spring weather for our trip north to Cape Reinga and breathed sighs of relief as we basked in the sun waiting for Sand Safaris to collect us. The jolly driver greeted us and the other 2 passengers in Maori (watch the All Blacks before a game and see how intimidating it is!) and sang traditional Maori songs all the way to our first stop - The Gum Diggers Park. No, this isn't where Mr.Wrigley originates but is a fascinating family-owned park where we saw Kauri trees still standing at 1000 years old and swamps revealing buried Kauri logs from 40,000 - 100,000 years ago. Absolutely amazing. We also learnt how the Irish and Croatians, amongst other nationalities, dug for Kauri gum in the roots of the trees. It was used as the base for polish but, as the gum is no longer available in commercial quantities and man-made replacements have been developed, the rare gum is now mainly used in jewellery. The Ancient Kauri Kingdom was our next stop where we spent a happy hour drawling at the gorgeous carved furniture made from Kauri wood (a snip at only 1500GBP each). We were reluctantly dragged out from the shop clutching our compromise purchase of a pate dish made from 40,000 year old Kauri. A compromise because Steve wouldn't let Beth buy a chair and she refused to leave without a purchase. We are getting the hang of this marriage thing.

Heading further north we finally reached Cape Reinga, known by Maori as Te Rerenga Wairua, the leaping place of the spirits, and the furthest northern point of New Zealand. As you look out over the Tasman sea merging with the Pacific, you can see and feel why the area is spiritually important to the Maoris. It is believed that after death, Maori spirits travel up Ninety Mile Beach to Cape Reinga where they travel down the cliff to the pohutukawa tree at the northernmost tip of the Cape. The spirits make their final leap from the tree and then return to Hawaiiki, the ancestral homeland of Maori. It was a great privilege to be able to see such a beautiful area even against the backdrop of the obligatory multi-destination signpost erected for the benefit of tourists (almost 20,000km to London for anyone interested)! We had lunch in one of the lovely bays before heading through the TePuki quick sands and to the surrounding sand dunes where we spent a brilliant hour tobaggoning down. Beth screamed so loudly, it is a wonder she didn't wake the spirits of the dead on their quiet traverse to the pohutukawa tree!

From there we headed for the journey back to Kaitaia but this time along ninety mile beach, actually 45 miles of thundering surf and white sand. The whole day was fascinating filled with adrenalin, spirituality and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.