Mixing with the Natives on Lake Titicaca

After a surprisingly untraumatic journey to Puno, we checked into a hostel but at 5GBP a night, we were a little scared by it's lack of hygiene. Hey-ho, we're supposed to be hardcore now, so we swallowed our revoltion and instead marveled at the total lack of things to do and see in Puno. Lunch included several beers to try and numb us from slimy bathroom floors and a city full of weirdo touts. Afterwards we headed straight to the travel agency (called All Ways Travel and really excellent) where we booked our tour on Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, and with 8300 square km to cover, we were eager to get started.

Boarding the motor boat, we bumped into 4 people we had been on the Colca Canyon tour with - the world (Peru in particular it seems as travellers seem to follow the same route) is such a small place! Firstly we traveled on the beautiful blue waters to Uros, a collection of floating islands that as the name suggests, literally float, as they were built to escape the Spanish when they invaded Puno. They are made of reeds and are like a mattress to walk on. After our hostel experience the night before, we almost fell asleep on them! We met the locals and ate the inside of a reed (utterly disgusting but could have potential if curried) then the group were taken on a ride in a reed boat around the islands. Uros floating islands are truly one of the most amazing sights we have seen.

Back in the motor boat we then made the long (4 hour) journey to Amantani Island (not floating) where we would climb to the top of the mountain to see the sunset, make our wish at the sun gate (our new Mercedes SLK should be arriving next week) and stay the night with a local family. My God, the climb was hard! We had flashbacks to the Inca trail as we stumbled up for 3 hours, but it was all worthwhile when we saw a gorgeous sunset and supported the local economy (well, that was Beth's excuse for the purchase of a bracelet and a hat made of Alpaca wool at the summit). Lucemiller, the head of the family that we were staying with, led us back in the dark to their house which, made of mud and minus electricity or hot water, promised an interesting night. She cooked us and Lisa (a lovely English girl on her gap year who stayed with the family too) a traditional meal of some unidentified root vegetable, almost raw potatoes and fish. Interesting experience but when in Rome etc, etc.

In the evening, we were forced to wear traditional dress. Frankly Beth looked like the Mitchelin Man in contrast to Stevewho rather irritatingly suited a poncho. The tourists and locals alike danced the night away in Amantani style which is rather strange; try holding hands, swinging your arms manically whilst swaying your hips in time to Peruvian pan pipe players in your own lounge. You feel like a right plonker. Three hours and a beer later, we headed to bed. One of the coldest nights of our life despite wearing hats, gloves and coats - someone must tell the locals that a tarpaulin roof does not keep out the cold.

The following morning we headed to the Island of Taquile where we walked for 2 hours round the side of the mountain to reach the town area (why does everywhere in Peru involve walking?). From here we learnt all about their history and their hat wearing traditions. We kid you not. They wear a white hat if they are single and with the bobble at the back if they have a girlfriend. They wear red hats if they are married and the bobble points to the back if they have children. They didn't mention what colour hat is worn if they are gay. To quote the guide "Taquile is a democracy, only the married men can vote". Priceless.

After a 4 hour journey back to Puno, we checked into our new hostel with high hopes of shiny bathrooms, hot water and a double bed. We were disappointed but consoled ourselves with a nice hotel booking in Cusco for a whopping $25 - Hostel Amarua, so chosen because of the name similarity to Beth's favourite liquor. Never say that our decisions are not informed and considered. Roll on Cusco and a bit of comfort!