Sunny Salvador

Colour and rhythm aside (Beth was feeling poetic when she wrote that last update!), the minority of Salvador people ensure that travellers feel on edge for a lot of their visit, despite the heavy police presence. It's a shame as Pelorhino, the historic Centre (we stayed in a really good hostel www.alaranj.com.br), has much to offer. The houses are brightly coloured and the architecture is jaw-dropping in it's colonial splendour.
The Bahian food is perfect for us; seafood (Steve is now a convert), spice and carb-intensive. Beth 's proudest moment was when some Brazilians commented in admiration on Beth's impressive chilli sauce consumption. She was on the toilet for 2 days afterwards but they didn't need to know that.

The beaches in Bahia were also wonderful with fluffy yellow sand and clear seas, home to hordes of surfers and bodyboarders. Just a shame you had to sunbathe with your bag padlocked to your legs!

'Pelorinha Dia & Noite' was amazingly good fun. An open air area full of bars, restaurants and centred around a huge stage where there were live samba and bossa nova bands every night. We tried to emulate the locals in their frenetic appreciation of the music; 100 revellers jumping on the spot. We may not have looked very stylish but we definitely worked off our dinner that night!

One day we wondered into the lower city - an area reached by lift or a long winding walk through the favelas. The first time we walked down through the favelas, oblivious to the danger as they were so crowded. The second time we wondered down was on a Sunday, almost deserted, and an elderly local started shouting urgently at us in Portuguese. We only finally understood when she mimicked slitting her throat to warn us off the route. We heeded the warning and got the hell out!!!!

In the lower city they have displays of capoeira. For those who haven't seen this, it dates from the Afro-Brazil slaves brought to Salvador. They practiced capoeira as a form of Marshall Arts (similar to kick boxing) but as the slave drivers became increasingly threatened by a potential revolt, the slaves disguised it as a form of dance; put to music and displayed as non-contact. The men that practice are incredibly graceful, balanced and supple - how they don't kick each other we'll never know. These guys definitely graduated from BAGA 1 gymnastics*! Shame we couldn't take a picture but it's considered too risky to take your camera out in the lower city.

The memory though is one we won't forget and the potential to be a victim of crime is far outweighed by the wonderful impression that Salvador leaves on your sense.


* BAGA, for anyone who did not do gymnastic classes in their youth, is the UK qualification - BAGA 1 being the best and where you either need to be able to do the splits or a back flip to graduate!